We left Oban and headed for the Highlands today. Leaving Oban we followed a single lane, meandering Road through the country, sometimes I’m not sure about Apple Maps? It was a little harrowing, but it is on those roads that we get windows into typical Scottish living. And that includes Highland cows. We generally see those on the weird windy roads. And this time I was thrilled because we also saw a Beltie (a Scottish, Galloway belted cow) the Oreo of the bovine world. So I’ll take it even if it’s awful for poor Scott. Those one lane roads were like a never-ending game of chicken with oncoming cars.

We drove to Inverness  via Glencoe, which, as promised, was absolutely stunning. I think the misting rain made it even more ethereal.

We headed to one of the recommended lookouts, only to discover that 50 cars were trying to fit into a pullout that only accommodated 40. People were at dead stops and having to back out. We abandoned that idea and drove down to find a little side road, then walked back to see the Three Sisters from a different vantage point.

There was something about the chaos of that pullout area that made me realize we would not have given full reverence to the beauty surrounding us. It was so much more peaceful to walk through the Highlands, across the creek and along a farm, passing only a family and a professional (?) photographer. It allowed the quiet reflection needed to imagine the people who lived here — the hardships of creating an existence and perhaps brutality of war alongside so much incredible beauty.

After leaving Glencoe, we traveled along several lochs, and finally along 22 miles of Loch Ness. Having heard about the lake my entire life… honestly? it was nothing like what I expected. I guess I had imagined something more Outlander-ish.

In fact, it surprised Scott and me how much it reminded us of Kenai Lake. We did a little math and realized Kenai Lake is significantly bigger. It’s been hard not to compare parts of Scotland to Alaska, but sometimes you just can’t help yourself — and this was one of those moments.

We arrived at another tourist frenzy: Urquhart Castle, which was a literal zoo and a parking nightmare. But with our trusty dusty National Trust membership, we zipped right to the front of the line.

The ruins of the Castle were absolutely beautiful, sitting out on a promontory over the loch with sweeping views all around. The history, of course, was brutal, and ownership of the castle changed constantly over the centuries. But what a spectacular setting.

We arrived in Inverness to a sweet B&B right on the river… (thank you, Rick Steves!) We walked down the pedestrian street hoping to find somewhere to eat, but it was PACKED. The town was jumping. Groups of people went from restaurant to restaurant asking for seats, only to be told they were fully booked for the night — and we were one of those groups.

Finally, we found a pub off the main drag with no reviews – we had given up TripAdvisor reviews or reading posted menus outside doors at this point we were hungry and willing to eat anywhere or anything. Except maybe haggis? This pub said if we were willing to sit on stools, we could come in. The stools were perched on barrels and extremely awkward, not just because they were uncomfortable, but because of the crowd at the door who were waiting for seats to empty. I could feel them willing me to eat faster. In the end, it was a decent meal and a pretty darn good salad. 

Tomorrow is a wander-around-Inverness day. We’re pretty charmed with the town. There’s a castle we’re hoping to see. Yes. Another castle. And maybe some laundry so we have something fresh for Edinburgh and the trip home. Yes. I said home. We are one week away!!

Seen along country roads

Glencoe and the Highlands.

Urquhart Castle